For some people, summer in France sounds like a dream—the idea of wearing cute sundresses as you pick up seasonal fruits from an outdoor market, sitting at a café wearing the chicest of sunglasses watching people go by, or if you’re on the Côte d’Azur, lounging on a beach or boat deck working on your suntan. It’s a reality for many people, but there’s another side to this idyllic image, and I’m here to spill the less glamorous side of traveling in France during the hottest months.

Unless you always run cold or are one of those people who simply never perspires, expect that you’re going to be sweaty, especially if you’re walking from place to place. If you’re taking the Paris Metro, it’s also incredibly warm and stuffy down there, so you will also sweat on the train. This leads me to a few things to keep in mind this summer if you’re traveling to France (or Europe, really):

Air conditioning isn’t always available.

The French by and large do not rely on air conditioning—there’s also this idea that AC will make you sick, and many buildings aren’t even equipped for it, so many places simply don’t have it. If they do happen to have AC, it’s running at a very low speed just to keep the air moving. (This gets incredibly uncomfortable if you’re trying to shop for clothes.) Places that will have decent air conditioning include modernized hotels, supermarkets, and museums—we spent a good portion of our last day in Bordeaux in our air-conditioned hotel room just because of the heat. My advice is to bring a folding fan and pretend you’re a 17th-century aristocrat. (Seriously, I now carry one in my purse.)

Iced drinks are hard to find.

In larger cities, like Paris and Bordeaux, you may have an easier time finding iced teas, iced coffee, and even slushies and boba. But when ordering a cold beverage in most places, ice is used sparingly, if at all. We sat down at a restaurant in Bordeaux and were brought a carafe of cold(ish) water, but it was so hot that the carafe immediately turned tepid after a few minutes. I outed myself as an American by asking, “Est-ce que vous avez des glaçons, s’il vous plait?” Our server brought me a tall glass filled with ice, and I drank my ice-cold water as if I’d been dehydrated for days. Don’t be afraid to ask, as they won’t always offer ice cubes or iced drinks.

The sun is strong, so protect yourself.

I’m from California and I felt like the sun was even stronger in France than it is in Los Angeles. Take advantage of the more up-to-date sunscreen technology of the products available at the French pharmacy and keep that skin protected. My preferred sunscreen, ISDIN, is actually from Spain, but I also like the Caudalíe Vinosun Protect line. And invest in sunglasses with good UV protection.

Other valuable, but also common sense, tips for surviving a European summer:

• Invest in linen and cotton clothing. Do NOT wear polyester or viscose unless you want to sweat and stink.
• If you tend to chafe when you walk long distances, also buy some anti-chafe pants for under dresses. Katie Sturino’s Megababe line is also great for an anti-chafe, travel-size thigh stick, and powder to help with boob sweat.
• Back up your deodorant with this underarm toner. I gifted this to a friend who was complaining about her deodorant not getting her through the day and this changed the game. I bring it with me anytime I’m going somewhere hot.
• If you’re heading somewhere that has mosquitos, get some bug spray and possibly soothing cream for bites. The countryside is no joke!
• Keep hydrated. It’s obvious, but sometimes we get so wrapped up in our travels that we forget. A bottle of water by your bedside table is also a good idea, just to hydrate before you sleep.

Safe travels, and bisous!

Bernadette